How to combine essences and color analysis
- by Luisa D.
- October 7, 2025
- Color Seasons, Kitchener Essences, Style Tools
Do you ever feel that your essence blend and your Color Season do not quite match? Maybe your dominant essence is ingenue but you are also a deep winter. Or you are a light summer with a strong dramatic essence.
It can be tough to figure out what looks good on you when you feel like your coloring tells a different story than your facial features. This guide will help you find out how you can connect John Kitchener’s seven Style Essences beautifully with the twelve color seasons.
1. the Kitchener Style Essences
The Style Essence system was developed by John Kitchener, who expanded upon the earlier work of Harriet McJimsy. In her book Art and Fashion and Clothing Selection from 1973, McJimsy described six style essences and already suggested color families that suit each one. Kitchener later added a seventh essence: the ethereal or angelic essence.
Based on his system, the seven essences are: Dramatic, Natural, Classic, Gamine or High Spirted, Ingenue or Youthful, Romantic, and Ethereal or Angelic. Each one reflects a unique energy and visual impression.
2. The 7 Style Essences and Their Color Harmonies
2.1 Dramatic Essence
The Dramatic Essence thrives in deep, rich, and high-contrast colors. Think of strong purples, magenta, chartreuse, and gold. Black is the most characteristic neutral for this essence, giving every outfit a feeling of presence and power. The Dramatic personality is magnetic and confident, and its colors reflect that intensity. If you have a Dramatic influence, you could choose the deepest and clearest tones from your own season’s palette.
2.2 Natural Essence
The Natural Essence radiates calm and ease. Its colors are inspired by the outdoors, such as forest greens, muted golds, warm browns, and soft rust. Imagine the earthy tones of autumn leaves or sunlit wood. These colors create a grounded and approachable look. Artificial or overly bright shades can feel uncomfortable for this essence, so stay close to natural, lived-in hues within your palette.
2.3 Classic Essence
The Classic Essence radiates balance and refinement. Its ideal colors are medium tones and timeless neutrals. Navy, beige, ivory, and soft blue all work well.
2.4 Gamine Essence
The Gamine Essence is all about playfulness. Its best colors are bright and joyful, such as clear reds, yellows, and aquas. Accents of white can bring clarity and freshness. Deep purples or golds may feel too heavy unless the person also carries Dramatic or Romantic energy. Gamine thrives on contrast and movement, so vivid, crisp colors suit you beautifully.
2.5 Ingenue Essence
The Ingenue Essence is seen as soft, and youthful. Its colors are gentle pastels and light tints such as baby blue, peach, orchid, and mint green. White, cocoa brown, or navy make lovely neutrals that could frame these tones.
2.6 Romantic Essence
The Romantic Essence is warm, feminine, and luxurious. It glows in soft reds, deep pinks, and gentle violets. Black can work beautifully when softened with lace, velvet, or other textured materials. Try choosing hues that evoke a sense of luxury.
2.7 Ethereal Essence
The Ethereal Essence feels light, graceful, and otherworldly. It is often associated with colors like lavender, sea blue, silver, and pale gold. These shades seem to float and shift in light, creating a sense of mystery and calm.
3. the 12 Color Seasons
bright spring
• Hue: neutral-warm
• Value: medium
• Chroma: bright
True spring
• Hue: warm
• Value: medium
• Chroma: medium/bright
light spring
• Hue: neutral-warm
• Value: light
• Chroma: medium
light summer
• Hue: neutral-cool
• Value: light
• Chroma: medium
true summer
• Hue: cool
• Value: medium
• Chroma: medium
soft summer
• Hue: neutral-cool
• Value: medium
• Chroma: soft
soft autumn
• Hue: neutral-warm
• Value: medium
• Chroma: soft
true autumn
• Hue: warm
• Value: medium
• Chroma: medium
deep autumn
• Hue: neutral-medium
• Value: deep
• Chroma: medium
deep Winter
• Hue: neutral-cool
• Value: deep
• Chroma: medium/bright
true Winter
• Hue: cool
• Value: medium
• Chroma: medium/bright
Bright winter
• Hue: neutral-cool
• Value: medium
• Chroma: bright
4. How to Combine Multiple Essences
Many people are not defined by a single essence but by a blend of two, three or even more. Here is how you could make sense of your unique blend.
4.1 find overlaps
Start by looking for similarities between your essence’s color recommendations. For example, both the Natural and Ethereal essence love muted tones, while Dramatic and Gamine both enjoy contrast. Finding these overlaps will help you identify the heart of your palette. You may want to write down characteristics of your essence’s best colors and see where they overlap.
4.2 think about mood and occasion
Next, think of your essence blend as a spectrum. You can emphasize one or another a bit more depending on your mood or the occasion. Some days you might express more of your Dramatic side with strong contrasts, while on other days you may prefer the subtle elegance of your Classic essence.
4.3 trust your gut
Finally, and most importantly, experiment and observe how each color makes you feel. Clothing is an emotional experience as much as a visual one. Notice which shades make you feel at peace, empowered, or inspired. Those sensations will guide you toward your most authentic expression of style.























